Great Trango (6287m) was first climbed on July 21, 1977, by the Americans Galen Rowell, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek. They had climbed through the South Face of the mountain. The East Face of Great Trango, 1600m from its base to the top, is among the biggest rock walls in the world. Its first ascent was made by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Daehli in 1984, but tragically the two climbers fell to their deaths when abseiling.
The most spectacular of the Trango towers is the so-called Nameless Tower (6251m). It was first climbed via the South-West Face by Bo Anthoine and Martin Boysen from Great Britain. The next day, Joe Brown and Malcolm Howells also reached the top of Nameless Tower. In 1989 Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich wrote Alpine history when they free-climbed a route they called “Eternal Flame“(with pitches graded 7c) and thus established free-climbing in the high mountains of the world.
In 2009 Shipton Treks & Tours organized the expedition of Thomas and Alexander Huber who succeeded in completing the first free ascent of “Eternal Flame”.
Note: Itinerary (can be shortened or extended depending on time, weather and physical condition)
|Days||Destinations / Day by day itinerary||Accommodation|
|01||Arrive at Islamabad afternoon welfare meeting with Alpine Club||Hotel|
|02||Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12hrs||Hotel|
|03||Rest day in Skardu or drive from Chilas to Skardu 8-9hrs 290km||Hotel|
|04||Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs 3000m||Camp|
|05||Trek to Jhola 6-7hrs 18km 3200m||Camp|
|06||Trek to Paiyu 6-7-hrs 16.6km 3450m||Camp|
|07||Trek to Trango Tower base camp||Camp|
|08 / 35
||28 days for climbing||Camp|
|36||Trek down to Paiyu||Camp|
|37||Trek down to Jhola||Camp|
|38||Trek down to Askoli||Camp|
|39||Drive to Skardu 6-7hrs||Hotel|
|40||Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas 8-9hrs||Hotel|
|41||Farewell meeting with alpine club of or drive form Chilas to Islamabad||Hotel|
|42||Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight|
View the embedded image gallery online at:
Dates & Prices
|Best Time For Climbing||Duration of Expedition||Group size||Expedition package|
|June to September Every Year||30 Days ISB-ISB||05-07-12 Climbers||Depends on group Size|
|Contact Us for Prices|
Services included in the Package
• Climbing permit process.
• Royalty of the Peak.
• Additional royalty fee per additional member above 7Pax.
• Environmental Fee
• Liaison officer/Guide daily wages and insurance
• Liaison officer /Guide equipment
• Staff: Guide, cook, assistant cook and kitchen Boy
• Cooking Equipment Complete brand new kitchen utensils (crockery)
• Camping Food: During trekking and at base camp.
• Porters: Required porters their wages, food, equipment, transport, and insurance.
• Accommodation with B/L/D(except in Islamabad)
• Transportation Islamabad to Islamabad
• Camping Equipment such as sleeping tent, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent, mattress, chairs, tables table lamps etc
• Member's personal baggage 75KGs per person way up to base camp and 50KGs per person way back after Expedition.
• Arrange welfare meeting with Alpine Club
• Cargo equipment storege.
• Tips for baggage handling at airport & at hotels
• International flights tickets re-confirmation
• Fess: (Bridge crossing, cable crossing, camping)